Stepping off the bus at Golden Gate Park, I was excited to see an admirable fashion designer’s collection at a museum I have never visited before. Walking up the staircase I saw a plaque outside the door with the initials “YSL,” I took a breath and stepped inside. The mere sight of the collection takes that breathe away. The first piece I laid eyes on was a Fall-Winter 1970’s evening gown. The mannequin was sitting down with it’s back towards the audience to show off the large cut out in the back of the rich black gown that stretched from the nape of the neck to the small of her back. What made the dress so special was the black lace that stretched across the cut-out, so her back was not bare but still alluring. Yves Saint Laurent pushed the limits of sensuality throughout his career. He was not afraid to show the curve of a woman’s bare back or a bit more leg from a wide slit. He made exposing the woman’s chest from a completely sheer blouse incredibly tasteful. Pairing the risqué top with a pant was revolutionary for the time as well. Women could now wear pants during any time of the day and to challenge gender lines even further, he created the first tuxedo for women. Though some of his pieces could be considered androgynous, the perfectly tailored pantsuit was paired with some the most incredible, decadent jewelry. The gems and stones did not only adorn the clothes in his collection, but rather a necklace, brooch, pair of earrings, ring, or bracelet appeared on all 130-pieces of the exhibit.
The exhibit was not organized chronologically, but rather according to various themes throughout his fashion history. The various parts of the exhibit showed off different collections throughout Saint Laurent’s 40 years of creativity which included inspiration from nature, other cultures, and other designers. The pieces that formed a tribute to famous artists in history was one of my favorite parts. YSL’s depiction of Vincent Van Gogh’s sunflowers appeared on a cardigan instead of canvas and on accessories such as beads, sequins and ribbons. As I kept walking, I saw pieces with Russian influences, made with hand-woven wools accompanied by high-heeled boots. Pieces inspired by Africa—raffia, wooden beads, and small pieces of wood were crafted to make couture gowns.
I came across what I consider to be my favorite: the Flora and Fauna collection. The flowers on the dresses appeared three dimensional from the detailed bead and sequin work that covered fabrics like velvet, satin crepe, and silk charmeuse. By the end of the exhibit I learned that Yves Saint Laurent was a true revolutionary in the fashion world. Whether that be making the tuxedo a staple for women, mismatching bold colors together, or using unconventional materials like vulture feathers, galvanized copper, and lacquering panne. Everything seemed to push the boundaries of fashion. Attempting to pick out a favorite ensemble is a difficult task—it might have been the black velvet dress with the signature gigantic pink bow blossoming from the back with a crystal choker around the mannequin’s neck. But perhaps that is too girly for my taste. Maybe it was the high-waisted tan trouser pant paired with a cropped suede vest and jacket. But perhaps that is too masculine.
All I know is the Yves Saint Laurent collection is not an exhibition to miss. Even if you’re not a believer in fashion, you’ll walk out as one.
Steffi Morrison
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